FAQ
If an engineered floor is installed with a floating method, a foam underlayment designed for hardwood flooring should cover the subfloor. If installing over concrete, also install a 6-mil poly film first (unless the underlayment you are using includes a 6-mil poly layer).
No underlayment is required if an engineered floor is glued down.
Before installation, the moisture content of the flooring and the subflooring should be checked, making sure they meet manufacturer recommendations, and the flooring should be acclimated to the job site. Once the flooring has been installed, the humidity level inside the building should be kept within the recommended range of 35-55 percent, and the temperature should be kept between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit year-round.
The Claritage® Extra finish also has nanotechnology for a tighter seal as well as greater scuff resistance and clarity. The PPG Ultra Low Gloss finish has a matte finish and a beautiful, consistent look and feel. Our aluminum oxide finish + antimicrobial protection controls the growth of unwanted bacteria and fungi and has greater UV color change resistance.
Sliced engineered floors are cut in the same horizontal or vertical directions as sawn engineered floors, offering a similar visual appearance. Rotary-cut engineered floors are made with a veneer that has been peeled from the outside of a spinning log. Because of the difference in technique, rotary-cut veneers often have more random grain variations.
Solid hardwood flooring is cut from a single piece of lumber—it’s solid all the way through. At 3/4-inch thick, solid flooring allows homeowners to strip, sand, and re-stain the planks several times without issue. Since solid flooring is cut from natural lumber with unique grain patterns, it can expand more dramatically in size and shape under excessive moisture conditions. As a result, solid hardwood must be nailed down, and it is not recommended for areas of the home with high moisture content, such as the bath and basement.
Engineered hardwood flooring is produced by bonding five to nine layers of hardwood in a cross-grain configuration. As a result, engineered flooring is more stable and less likely to be affected by humidity changes than solid hardwood flooring. Engineered flooring can be installed with staple-down, glue-down, and floating methods on all levels, including the basement.
Prefinished flooring is stained and sealed by the manufacturer. The aluminum oxide coating on a factory-finished floor provides a stronger, and generally more durable surface.
Testing is conducted by measuring the force required to embed a .444-inch steel ball to half its diameter into a wood sample, a reliable method for assessing the ability of a wood species to withstand denting and wear. Higher ratings are assigned to harder woods, which tend to be more durable than softer woods.
Janka Hardness Chart
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Sanding & refinishing involves sanding the top part of the wear layer to even out any scratches and discoloration, then refinishing the floors. Padding & recoating involves abrading the current finish to then bond a new layer of finish onto the floors. A pad & recoat cannot be done if any wax products, silicon cleaners, or oil soaps were used on the floors, as they will prevent the new layer of finish from bonding. For either method of refinishing, follow all directions of the finish manufacturer.
Once the flooring has been altered, the person who altered it assumes the finish warranty. If you are using a professional contractor, ask what warranty they might provide.
For the best results, make sure you are staining a species of wood that is identical to your flooring product. When applying the stain, apply a small amount to a test area before staining the entire area. The color will vary by how much stain is applied to the wood, and not all species absorb stain in the same manner.
Learn more about stains and touch-ups.